Friday

Checking your EGR valve

TESTING YOUR EGR VALVE

1. Make certain that all vacuum hoses or correctly routed and securely attached. Replace cut, cracked, crimped, melted/burnt or broken hoses.

2. Make certain there's no vacuum to the EGR valve at idle with the engine at normal operating temperature.

3. Install a tachometer.

4. Disconnected the idle bypass valve electrical connector.

5. Remove the vacuum supply hose from the EGR valve nipple and plug the hose.

6. With the transmission in neutral, start the engine and observe the engine idle speed, if necessary, adjust the idle speed to the emission decal specifications.

7. Using a hand vac pump, slowly pump up like 5 to 10 inches of mercury vacuum to the EGR valve vacuum nipple.

8. If any of the following occur replace the valve: engine does not stall; idle speed does not drop more than 100 rpm; idle speed does not return to normal plus or minus 25 rpm after the vacuum is removed.

9. Reconnect the idle bypass valve electrical connector. Unplug and reconnect the EGR valve vacuum supply hose.


There are two types of position sensors for the EGR valve. This also determines the correct EGR name, either PFE or DPFE (see below). Look at the sensor that is mounted to the EGR valve itself. Physically, the PFE sensor has one pressure input nipple. The DPFE sensor has two pressure input nipples. Electrically, both the PFE and the DPFE sensors are three wire sensors. Each have a 5-volt reference from the ECM, a ground, and a sensor output. It is in the sensor output voltage where these two sensors differ.

The EVP came in two versions: one black and the other white (off gray).  These units have different values even though they mount and look the same.  Make sure you have the right one.

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