Wednesday

Crankshaft timing sensor

There are two posts on this device. Check HERE for more info. On this unit, the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt cover must be removed for access to the ‘one bolt.”
You do not need to remove this to change a timing belt regardless of what the shop manuals say. The sensor does get quite dirty. A good cleaning before removing any bolts is advised.


Ford part # T89P-6316-A is used to properly position the sensor. No Tool? At lease measure the current distance between the sensor and the timing belt pulley, I used a feeler gauge. The special tool may be available on loan from your auto parts store, but I doubt it.

Coleman stove

Coleman gas stove
 Here's a great article on repairing your old Coleman gasoline stove.  Has nothing to do with my truck, unless I take it camping. Did you know these units will run fine on regular no-lead gasoline?  Yes, they do.

Tuesday

Fuel pump relay

Fuel pump relays can cause intermittent problems such as hard starting and power loss.  The first check is to listen each time you turn the ignition key, you should always hear the electric fuel pump run (a whirling noise) for a few seconds as the pump pressurizes the fuel system. After the fuel pump pressurizes the system, it shuts off.  If sometimes you do not hear it and have a hard or no start problem check the fuel pump relay as described below.

See what pin type you have. Generally 4 or 5 pins.
If four pins, remove relay and bench test as follows:
Using an ohm meter, check between pins 85 and 86.  If reading is more or less than 85 ohms replace the unit.

If five pin type, remove relay and bench test as follows:
Using an ohm meter, check between pins 85 and 86.  If reading is more than 120 or less than 40 ohms replace the unit. Check between pins 85 and pins 30 and 87, if less than 10,000 ohms replace the unit.

If the relay shows burning or distortion from heat, replace the unit and check the plug for damage.  If the relay checks good, proceed to a fuel pressure and volume test.

These relays are not expense and are handy for many applications as they have a good amp rating.

Friday

2.3L heater hose

It takes 5/8" standard hose, 3/8 hose for the wrap around metal line.


Tension and Idler pulley

My truck with it's 2.3L engine has riveted or pressed on pulleys. They don't unbolt from the flange.  The original Ford part numbers were: E97A-3F671-AA and F07A-8675-AA. I was able to find an aftermarket replacement part for them.

For  E97A-3F671-AA:
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,335,partnum,36155,d,acdelco_36155.html
Pulley info: (82mm x 17mm x 31mm) - Flanged, W/10mm Bushing
This is also Napa #31655










For F07A-8675-AA (MOTORCRAFT A/C DRIVE BELT IDLER PULLEY 1990-1997 Ranger)
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): F07A8675AA, FOTZ8678D
New Motorcraft # YS196
Napa also carries the other pulley. Gates #36153, Goodyear #49120
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1145581
Pulley size is 90mm x N/A x 26mm


EGR control solenoid

It is located on the passenger side inner fender toward the firewall.

This is a normally closed solenoid that when energized by the ECA (electronic control assemble) it causes a vacuum to flow to the EGR valve.  When it is deenergized the vacuum is stopped and the EGR valve is closed.

TESTING THE EGR SOLENOID

The resistance of each solenoid should be 68-78 ohms. If not replace the solenoid. It should flow air (vacuum) when energized. They are expected to have some small leakage when energized or not. This is normal and acceptable.